All’s Well

May 2, 2009

Hong Kong authorities have tracked down all but 50 of the residents of the Metropark Hotel in the va-va-va-voom Wan Chai distict and given the other 280 Tamiflu. They found the cabbies and the passengers who rode the plane with the Mexican — Asia’s first confirmed H1N1 patient, reported to be in stable condition — from Shanghai to Hong Kong.  But no word on whether Shanghai officials have located the folks who flew with the guy from Mexico to China.

Hotel guests will have to be quarantined for the next six days. A lousy vacation, but they can spend it in an isolation camp in Hong Kong’s lush New Territories. About a dozen have already gone there. Meanwhile, back at the Metropark,  out in the back alley, a couple of Chinese guests smoked, but declined my invitation to chat.

Around in the front of the building local reporters on a stake out on the sidewalk taped papers with their cell numbers outside the lobby’s glass. They are hoping guests will call so they can get a scoop. Hotel staff responded by drawing the curtains.

The Monster Godzilla Coming, Everybody Run!

May 2, 2009

One of the most culturally insensitive things I do to Japanese relatives with limited English ability is to ask them to repeat after me:

“The Monster…”

“The Monster.”

“Godzilla”

“Godzirra”

“Is coming. Ev-ery-body RUN!”

And they do. And I think it’s funny. And my sister-in-law, who is Japanese, yells at me.

I think of this as a picture of panic grips the planet over the H1N1 virus.

Hong Kong is the best place to be in this crisis. They’ve been there, done that. In 2003 this is where SARS began. “Since SARS people pay closer to hygiene and was their hands,” a fellow passenger on the Star Ferry told me yesterday. Also yesterday the head of the government issued a public call for calm in the wake of its and Asia’s first diagnosed H1V1. At this hour, we are up to two cases: a 51 year-old woman in South Korea and the 25 year-old Mexican fellow hospitalized here in Hong Kong.

A hospital authority spokesman told me “the Mexican”  is doing fine, eating normal food, stable.  I hear the woman is ok too. Masks have yet to infiltrate the population here as they did six years ago during SARS.  But they were available at the airport when I arrived Thursday along with health declaration forms and blue sheets that described broadly what to expect when you’re infected.

One of my new friends, a 42 year-old Amway salesman from New York on his way through to visit family in Xinjiang had the same thought I did yesterday: that if 186 countries can get their act together to mitigate this potential pandemic, imagine what else we can do that is positive.

China has banned all direct flights from Mexico. Front page yesterday carried a photo of a team in white protective suits, masks, goggles and surgical gloves boarding a plane with MEXICO splashed across its side. They spent two hours taking people’s temperature. Of course passengers can be asymptomatic, as one was. But as with all the actions listed below, the appearance of efficiency is more important than efficiency itself.  Now the search begins for the 142 passengers who sat near the guy who was probably on that plane.

Besdies all that, here’s some of the other actions being taken as Godzilla approaches, credit to the South China Mornimg Post:

- China Southern Airlines banned pork from its menu

- China Railway Construction Corporation called off its annual results press conference

- Cathay Pacific flights attendants threaten to sue if they can’t wear masks and rubber gloves when they pick up trays (the company says it would send the wrong signal)

- 15 people visited Kwan Chi-yee’s clinic two days ago to buy ban lan gen (Radix isatidis), an herb believed by many Chinese to fight the flu. He usually only sees two or three clients a day.

- The Mainland Government is placing an herbalist into every flu contingency task force and the PRC’s Ministry of Health has posted herbal formulas on its website.

- A man in Australia kissed a pig to show he wasn’t afraid

A press conference has been called for 4:30.

More on race

April 25, 2009
This shot was taken on the set of the movie Iron Road. The sign reads "Caucasian Extras." It's an example of what happens when you don't have a sense of history.

This shot was taken on the set of the movie Iron Road. The sign reads "Caucasian Extras." It's an example of what happens when you don't have a sense of history. The intention, however, is to make the foreign extras more comfortable. When the NBC crew showed up to do a documentary on China's Hollywood the sign was removed by an American who was in charge of taking care of one of the stars.

Hurrumph

April 24, 2009

Part of the problem with announcing new posts for this blog on Facebook is that the responses arrive there too.

David Nath at 10:53am April 22 replied to the entry about the toll booth collector:

This is hillarious!

Cyril Chen in Hong Kong at 9:52am April 25 his time weighed in on the blog about himself:

Mr. Marcus, in my opinion, when Chinese people ask you: have you lunch yet, they are not showing their intention to finish the dialogue.Normally, when two friends or two neighours meet at the street, they say “have you had dinner” to each other, just like Americans say “hallo!”If during the talk, they ask you whether you have dinner, they might (1) think it is time to dinner; or (2) show their care to you.

Eating is one part of Chinese culture, and as a family, the time to get together usually happens at a big table during a big festival, entire family members eat and talk. That’s why dinner is far beyond the eating itself. And Chinese people ask whether you ate, not 100% want to know whether your dinner is hamburg or rice, but want to know whether you are okay.

Regards,

Cyril Chen

At 11:28pm April 24 my time in New York I replied:

Cyril, I am showing my frustration with social niceties either here or there. I’m a curmudgeon. When we write it is ALWAYS about ourselves…even when we are talking about others. Or, at least when I write it is about me!

Thanks for the reaction.

Yifeng Jiang in Shanghai at 1:19pm April 25 his time writes:

Ur site can not be visited here once again.

I don’t think it’s always a sign that they have nothing to talk with you when they ask if you ate. The meaning varies depending on the different situation. It’s just a cultural thing that you don’t need to take too much of. Just like people in US say “Excuse Me” all the time even if they don’t always mean but to be polite ( :-D Let me know if I’m wrong). I’m just wondering what if the one who you ask if ate says he didn’t and by accident he’s the one who you really don’t feel like eating with. I guess you might say ” too bad I already ate.”

Negro Problems

April 24, 2009

When a Chinese person asks you if you’ve had lunch yet, that’s a sign that he doesn’t have anything to say. Unless, of course, he’s your waiter.

Just got off the phone with a former Fudan University student. He’s in Hong Kong and I will see him there soon. But it’s noon here. And what do you say to your old teacher anyway? So he asked if I had eaten.

In our class lesson titled “Why Should I Care” a modern-day game show, hosted by me, the ham-teacher, his task, as a contestant, was to portray W.E.B. DuBois.  Cyril (Chen Yun Kai) once told me his goal is to be the world’s best accountant. Reportedly, he’s well on his way.

“Why Should I Care”  had a “mash-up” lesson plan. Around the room on stark desks were distributed hard stock Library of Congress photographs republished by Pomegranate (Box 6099, Rohnert Park, CA 94927) from two of their books “Women Who Dared, Vol. 1: A Book of Postcards” and “African Americans: A Book of Postcards” (Amazon.com $9.95). I had gotten them from Picture That www.picture-that.com at a South Norwalk, CT street fair.

After choosing a famous woman or African-American students noted the information on the back and returned the card.  Their next task was to fill-out a worksheet copied from the book Seven Ways of Teaching by David Lazear, an extremely handy paper-back for middle-school teachers to help guide them to teach to multiple intelligences.

Their instructions, were as follows: Everyone in life faces choices and challenges. In their life, the person you portray on “Why Should I Care?” faced a choice and a challenge. YOUR JOB AS A STUDENT is: before appearing on “Why Should I Care?” fill out the 4-level Reflection Model Sheet as if you are the perosn you are studying. Make believe you are he or she when you fill it out. Chose one major lifetime choice or challenge from the history of your person. Using your resources (the libraries, e-mail with research librarians, www.google.com, www.ask.com, etc.) submit A COPY of your 4-Level Reflection Model Sheet the day you appear on the show.

As a guest on the “show” you will be in the midst of making up your mind about that choice or challenge. You must be able to communicate, present, and convey your historical person’s position and rationale. BE CONVINCING.

AFTER appearing on the brand new interview show, “Why Should I Care?” with other contestants compare and contrast all the conflicts of all the people in your group. What are your conclusions? Why? 200 words. Typed. Double spaced. Due the class after your appearance on the show.

TEACHERS, NOTE: You can make one yourself: draw a 9 1/2 inch by 6 inch box. Create a banner at the top 1/2 inch by 6 inches and then four large rectangles below 2″ x 6″. In the banner write “4-Level Reflection Model” and number the boxes below Level 1, How Am I Involved?; Level 2, What Are the Pluses, Minuses, And What Do I Find Interesting?; Level 3, What Do I think Could/Should Be Done?; and Level 4, What Can I Do Now?

In the rectangle beside Level 1 write the question “Where and how does the issue touch my life? How does it make me feel? What are my thoughts and opinions about it?”

In the rectangle next to Level 2 create three smaller boxes each with its own heading “Positive Aspects +”, “Negative Aspects -” and “Interesting |”

In the rectangle next to Level 3 write the question “If I was “in charge” what would I do? What do I think needs to happen in this situation? What action(s) should be taken?”

In the rectangle next to Level 4 write “What steps could I take now (even small ones) to bring about a resolution to this issue?’

Learning how to analyze, synthesize and objectively evaluate history is a tall order the Chinese freshman, even if they did test out as the smartest 4% in the country. That said, we did accomplish four fun-filled, fascinating and funny hour and a half sessions of African American and Women’s history.

Cyril relfected on what he had learned so I could share it with New York State Social Studies teachers when I presented a couple weeks back at the New York State Social Studies Conference.

To:     Bill Marcus

From: Cyril Chen

Date:  February 18, 2009

Subject: Experience Sharing on “Why Should I Care” Game

Acting as W.E.B. DuBois was a different experience of learning English to me. I changed myself from a student taking notes during classes and doing boring grammar exercises to the one who made great effort to search information, and used the information to make up a complete picture of historic figures. It is a small step in my English studying, but this small step turned out to be a turning-point in my study-style throughout my university education.

Several days were spent in collecting information about W.E.B. DuBois. It is easy to google millions of information about W.E.B. DuBois, but it is a huge challenge at that time for me to think what W.E.B. DuBois thought in his time. I was headache at first and complained in my mind: “What is Mr. Marcus doing? Why should I care the one I don’t know?” I knew nothing about Pan-Africanism, NAACP, or Negro problems at the ending of 19th century and the beginning of 20th century.

It is hard to fully understand what happened one century ago, in a different country, and it is uneasy to imagine what troubles, hurts, and encouragements Mr. DuBois encountered throughout his 95-year-old life. So I mainly focused on his student period, and his writings, trying to find out his thoughts in his youth, and to see how these ideas directed Dr. DuBois’s future career and social activities.

So on the presentation day, with a loud and brief introduction from Mr. Marcus, some other historic figures and I, W.E.B. DuBois, “travelled through time tunnel” and sit in the front of classroom. I shared “my” writings and doctorial dissertation in Harvard University with the audience, and I also briefly mentioned my contributions to NAACP.

Honestly speaking, I wasn’t satisfied with my performance that Friday morning. Some months later, I thought the reason was due to my insufficient knowledge on history and social issues of the United States, that’s why it seems to be a huge task for me to perform this role well.

I took 4-month English course taught by Mr. Marcus from the autumn of 2004, while his thoughts on learning influenced me throughout the 4-year university education I have, no matter whether in Shanghai or in Hong Kong. Maybe some of the students forgot the program called “Why Should I Care” four years ago, but I didn’t and won’t. It changed my attitude toward language studying. I gave up my boring text book, but used English as a tool to get familiar with another world, another culture, and another history different from what I am living in. I use this language proactively instead of learning some paragraphs in text book required by teachers.

Apart from English, there is a huge pool of knowledge in front me as well, history, literature, sociology, philosophy, economics, accounting, etc, most of the pool is the area I don’t know, or the area I know but not fully understand, but the hands, the eyes, and the brain were controlled by me, to learn it from different angles, to think why it happened, and to think why someone did it at the certain period.

So “Why Should I Care” helps me to find out what I don’t know, from then on, I tried to locate the knowledge pool myself, then thought of the ways to learn it — from libraries, from discussions, from travelling, or from internet, and not only sourced from text book any more.

Change you can believe in

April 22, 2009

It costs 40 cents at the toll booth at the northern-most point on the Taconic State Parkway if you’re heading downstate from Albany and only drove the I-90 spur of the New York State Thruway.  I wanted quarters so I gave the man a dollar. He handed me six dimes.

“Dimes?” I asked the lone figure who obviously had few visitors. “Do you have any quarters?”

He was waiting for that.

“Didn’t you ever study history? Rockefeller gave out dimes during the depression.”

I bit and the lesson continued.

“Rockefeller would go out on the street with a pocket full of dimes and hand them out to kids. Surely you were taught that in school or your parents or your grandparents told you about that. I only have dimes and nickles – if you want quarters I have to go inside.”

I declined the offer.  After a few more back and forths I told him I was grateful for the education and that I would look it up, which I still haven’t. But imagine that, a man taking money on the New York  State Thruway going over and above his responsibility to change lives and educate. Now that’s change I can believe in.

From the inside looking in

April 18, 2009

Susan Boyle this week grabbed the Western World by its shirt collars and gave our beauty and image obsessed media a much-needed chance to repent, if not reflect.  It’s not like we haven’t had this lesson before. We just interpreted it differently. Last August chubby-cheeked and crooked-toothed nine year-old Yang Peiyi was yanked out of camera view so her solo at the Beijing Olympics could be lip-synched by a prettier version.

We jumped all over the Chinese. Our argument was deceit. Theirs was putting their best face forward.

The Scottish songbird reminded us how important looks are to us, the same people the Chinese were trying to aesthetically please last August.  Lucky for Yang Peiyi that she lives in a culture that won’t turn her into a Susan Boyle. Not that they don’t have TVs in China, or guys that value beauty over other attributes. In Chinese culture,  it just isn’t the whole ball of wax.

Updating Reality

April 7, 2009

If you didn’t hear “The New Normal” on All Things Considered Tuesday night click it on and listen http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=102851827 .

At the end they ask for comments. I did something I rarely do..I sent them one that began with this:  “I think the new normal (buried a bit in my blog entry) will be a return to realism, practicality, and, like the China where I lived for the last six years, more pragmatism on a macro level, e.g. what we’ll accept and advance in our political, economic and social institutions.”

Then I invited them to read what I had posted earlier today, below.

O Albany

April 7, 2009

Reality

Within this piece on FACEBOOK that ran in the NY Times last week http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/29/technology/internet/29face.html?em is the nugget for a larger examination:

Uniting disparate groups on a single Internet service runs counter to 50 years of research by sociologists into what is known as “homophily” — the tendency of individuals to associate only with like-minded people of similar age and ethnicity.

In addition to the political and economic sacred cows felled by recent economic events, technology now shifts its guns in the direction of social institutions once immune to change.

In the March, 2009 Atlantic Richard Florida suggests the economic malaise could mirror the collapse of the late 19th Century which lasted 23 years. http://www.theatlantic.com/doc/200903/meltdown-geography

The historian Scott Reynolds Nelson has noted that in some respects, today’s crisis most closely resembles the “Long Depression,” which stretched, by one definition, from 1873 to 1896. It began as a banking crisis brought on by insolvent mortgages and complex financial instruments, and quickly spread to the real economy, leading to mass unemployment that reached 25 percent in New York.

This brings me to my observation of the lives of white middle-aged middle and upper middle-class friends in Albany, NY area. The structural re-alignment, for the first time in my memory, has forced those in my “homophily” to structurally realign how they live their lives.  In China personal changes have lead to societal changes. The same may be on the way in New York and the USA.  (Former NPR Beijing correspondent Rob Gifford in his book China Road suggests, and I’m paraphrasing here, that once you let a people decide what they want on top of their pizza it’s not a far stretch that they’ll eventually want to also decide who they want on top of their government.)

Friends who for years have played a key role in government now question in private conversation the adequacy of the structure of the state’s economy and its constitutional structure. New York State’s Constitution has not been seriously reconsidered since 1897 with a tweak in 1938.  “What do you think about referendum?” was what was for dinner last night. “On a local level, we have it in our Municipal Home Rule Law,” I replied. “Where will we be economically in two years?” A reality-based structure is needed. But the problem is bigger than that, I reply. The economic upheaval has revealed fundamental deficiencies in America.  Democracy requires democrats and critical thinkers, I answer.  Diversity and innovation are America’s traditional strengths.  CUT TO: those who are supposed to nurture those strengths.

At last week’s conference of  social studies teachers and supervisors from across the state I had a glimpse of “the profession” – depression and dispassion; intellectual frustration; suffocated innovation; struggle with a corrupted, authoritarian form without regard for individual initiative.  Exactly what I found under socialism in China: an intellectual class with an iron-rice bowl mentality who expect the government to provide job tenure, health insurance and an annual pay raise.  What is the reality that these people teach in their classrooms? I mused aloud. My job at the social studies conference was to teach about the reality of China.

Back to dinner where the question of whether longer legislative terms opens the worm can, as it should. The reality-driven question is how can the relationship between the government and the governed be made legitimately representative? In China, responsibility for achieving that goal falls upon the shoulders of the party.  Political empowerment will come from economic empowerment, but it’s a dream predicated upon education.

Here in Albany the talk is all about politics since that’s the local industry. But it’s economics on which the castle of a democratically-elected state government has been built.  Would shifting power, now in the hands of a centralized legislative party, to an electorate-driven chamber bring us closer to economic reality? Or would it simply risk instability? The state budget and the upcoming fiscal cuts to come were, will be and had to be implemented from the top down. Same as in China: command economy. Difference is there people accept that. Perhaps it’s acceptance that I learned over six years and lectured about last week.

But back to narrowing that representative gap. To do it, I suggested, over dinner, one would take one house, most likely the Senate, and make its constituency ideological instead of population-driven. Make the entire state as a one-district unit like in Israel’s 120-member Knesset. Parties that want to win a seat in the Senate would field a list of candidates. The percentage of the vote would determine who on the list would gain a seat priority being given to those highest on the list.  Voters would judge state-wide parties on their platform and their list. New York’s strength, diversity, would be amplified in its government.  Bi-bicameralism in New York would have a utility, which it does not now, since both chambers are elected from population-driven districts.

But what about reality? That’s for people who can’t face drugs, I said.  Learned that in college, I said, where they taught us to read the writing on the wall.

Teachable Moments

March 31, 2009

On Thursday I’ll be speaking at the annual conference of state social studies teachers. I wanted to post this information since I planned to refer to the experience in my talk.

PRESENTATION TITLE: “Somebody Else’s Country”

April 2, 2009

New York State Conference of Social Studies Teacher, Saratoga Springs, NY

Frequently Asked Question #14

What was it like in Thailand after the Tsunami?

Very sad. But I didn’t realize this until after 10 days of volunteering. PTSD was my diagnosis upon my return to Shanghai. Every day another person recalled the death of a loved one. For the article that appeared in the NYSCSS Publication I revisited the program, stopping, on the way, at Phi Phi Island. At a memorial erected by Westerners I broke down. My sadness was connected to my own unresolved grief.

Social Science Docket Summer-Fall 2007

P. 82 Teaching Ideas Teacher Instruction in Post-Tsunami Thailand

In January, 2005, social studies educator Bill Marcus, living and teaching in China, contacted NYSCSS member Maryanne Malecki about his work with schools in Thailand following the devastation of the December 26th tsunami. In an e-mail, Bill cited sharing several books used in the SUNY-Albany social studies methods class with program coordinators in Thailand and requested assistance in procuring additional resources for the program. Maryanne received a $500 mini-grant from NYSCSS for this purpose and Bill secured additional donations of pedagogical materials from publishers. This is an edited version of his report on the project.

On Monday, January 24, 2005, the Bangkok Red Cross referred me to the Phang Nga coordinator for teacher instruction. I was assigned to the Ban Nam Kem school in Takua Pa, Phang Nga Province, Thailand to teach for one week as part of the aid in tsunami recovery. Ban Nam Kem was ground zero for tsunami devastation. On December 26, 2004, waves took the lies of ten of the school’s 413 children and twenty-seven parents. Five children lost both of their parents and almost all of them lost their homes. At the time of my arrival, many children were living at the school, or in tents or newly built structures that were constructed on school and village land.

I gave myself two jobs. I planned to teach students-centered lessons in a highly structured safe classroom atmosphere in which students would feel comfortable, and to coax the school’s regular Thai teacher into my classroom to observe Western teaching methods. Realizing that what I was doing could continue to be done by others, I proposed to the Tsunami Volunteer Center (www.tsunamivolunteer.net) the former creation of “The English Project.”

The program’s goals are to rekindle the joy of learning, to teach people rather than text, and to promote sensitivity to race and the cultural norms. A year after securing the support of the Tsunami Volunteer Center, “The English Project” had a presence in as many as ten schools.

Pedagogical Objectives

The pedagogical objectives of the “English Project” are to cultivate an atmosphere of trusts and a willingness to welcome pedagogical support; improve student pronunciation with immediate feedback, direction and correction; enhance language facility; enable students to benefit economically from improved English proficiency through improved instruction; and enable Thai teachers to gain access to professionals with whom they can directly partner.

The immediate impact of English instruction from trained foreign teachers assigned to local schools by “The English Project” has been significant. Thai Elementary School administrators told me that school children are no longer “afraid of Farang” (the Thai word for foreigners), that tedium in the fifth and sixth grade English language classroom has been replaced with engagement and enthusiasm, and that interest in the subject of English as a Second Language has spread to the younger children. The smallest learners reportedly find learning English so much “fun” that they bring their lessons home to teach their parents.

American Teaching Methodology

The transfer of American teaching methodology and philosophy spreads pedagogical skills and peace through better inter-cultural understanding. Inter-personal interaction with foreigners improves learner attitudes and comfort in exploring the social nuances necessary to relate to Americans and other native speakers of English. Improved English proficiency improves the economic prospects of English learners.

The simultaneous application of “passivity” and “advocacy” is key to the programmatic success of “The English Project.” Volunteers need to be asked to help and to win the trust of native teachers, goals that are not always achieved.

For Asian learners, “The English Project” challenges pedagogical intransigence and offers an alternative method of second language instruction by skilled professionals. For underpaid and overworked Thai teachers and administrators, the program provides in-service training in teaching to multiple intelligences and increased attention to “right-brained” learning. Learners are no longer constricted to learn English simply by rote and repeat. For Americans, the program provides engagement instead of isolation. (end of article)

Diary of the Recovery Effort

My journal, as I edited it and sent it out to friends from January 25 to early February (only about eight days) is below. When the tsunami struck I was in Shanghai, China. I first learned about the disaster from Yahoo news. I then became aware of the severity of the crisis when friends from the United States, who knew I often traveled to Thailand for my winter break, wrote me to confirm that I was alive.

Two days after the event I was shocked when one of my master’s students replied to my calls for action by arguing that China had to first look to their own. But this shock paled when compared to China’s silence: a hundred other master’s students and all of my freshman students were unaware of the event. Three days after the event news coverage in communist China, which takes its cue from the government, was nearly non-existent. Two weeks later my department began collecting contributions. Colleagues said I could benefit my students by going since they could not.

January 25-February, 2005 Khao Lak, Phang-Nga Province, Thailand

Dear Friends, family: I’ve thrown my lot in with a wonderful group of left-leaning secular folks who seem to really have their act together. I recommend the group’s site www.tsunamivolunteer.net for information and updates on what is going on in the hardest hit parts of Thailand.

Focus is quickly shifting to long-range rebuilding. Those with the perspective and respect for local autonomy take precedence now. When I showed up at the Red Cross in Bangkok last Saturday it was the first day they said they weren’t looking for volunteers. I’ll be gone on Tuesday. Long-range commitments are what are needed now.

Good things are happening. Today a group of 35 Korean and Japanese college kids encamped for the weekend at the Ban Nam Kem school where I am teaching. They have the energy to light up all of Asia. Faith in the future of the world can be found here and now in Thailand.

I’m impressed with the tsunamivolunteer group, in large part, because they are very sensitive to the fact that whatever they do has to be with the consent and acquiescence and support of the local population. I trust the way they are coordinating. I am watching them professionalize and dig in for the long run: regular meetings, a steering committee, rules, orientation, a complement of Thai translators and culturally sensitive attaches to every Western task force.

Here is a page from my journal(updated):

Overnight, Monday-Tuesday

“Where are you going?” Even now I have to look at the paper. “Takua Pa,” I tell the Thai woman across the isle. I had earlier observed her offering some of her melon to the young girl who now slept in the seat behind her. Strangers, but we are all on this bus for the same reason. The woman is on leave from her job as an HIV researcher in Bangkok. I have been referred by the Red Cross. She’ll head to the naval base and then serve donated food for a week. The sleeping girl is headed back to the school where she teaches. On the Sunday morning when the waves hit, a teacher and her students who were doing extra classes there were killed. Buddhist nuns in white and monks in orange in the front of the bus are going to relieve staff at their temple. I tell the woman about myself and my feelings. I feel I represent my family, my friends, and my country. “I am here for them too,” I say. “You are lucky,” she replies, “you can help.” Her words hang in the air as if they shouldn’t have been said. Lucky? “Is it true American government knew the waves were coming?” Now I know why I am here. I draw breath and speak softly. “Would a human being, if they could prevent the death of just one other let alone 150,000 — would it be reasonable to expect them to act?” Again, more words in the air. Now she wants to know why America is in Iraq. She is blunt, but not malicious. “Many reasons,” I tell her. We are distracted by the movie.

  • ***

Everyone at Takua Pa has a death story. Pat, a volunteer from San Diego whose husband left her after she found another man, Jesus, recalled not wanting to see the face of her dead father. Jim, the 36 year-old planning engineer from North Carolina earned the wrath of his family when, as executor, he had to pull the plug on his grandmother. The Thai, though, are relatively calm. Buddhist tradition and beliefs presume the soul immediately or relatively soon will be reborn on its way to Nirvana. As a result, grieving is hard to spot. Some, I am told, do, however, fear the souls of the foreigners still hanging around. “Thai will not tell you their emotion,” Charoen Chitravarin, School Supervisor for Phang-Nga Province’s 180 schools told me Friday at a thank you lunch.

At the Bannamkem school where I am teaching conversational English on a busman’s holiday from a Chinese university the four hours of waves took 10 of the school’s 413 children and 27 parents: Five children lost both mother and father; 16 lost their mother; 5 lost their father. Two children lost guardians. Almost all lost their homes and are now living at the school, or in tents or newly built structures that an NGO is constructing on school and village land. Mr. Chitravaren tells me 30 children died at another one of his schools. I saw government officials Tuesday giving some of the orphaned children bank accounts with 20,000 Baht or $500 in them. Even in the best of times this little place a little over 100 km north of Phuket doesn’t have a lot.

After class today Miss Nan, who Mr. Chitravaren sent to pick me up when I arrived Tuesday morning, showed me some of the 29 bank accounts books she had just opened for the children. She’d provide me with the account numbers if I want but I defer and suggest instead that I check at the volunteer center to see what is appropriate action. But I am inconsistent. Earlier I wrote down Mr. Chitravaren’s account despite the fact, I told him, that I am a teacher and this isn’t my area to decide.

On the bus to school today, my third day, I began to think long range. Mr. Chitravaren agrees that a native speaker willing to make a two week commitment would be a welcome aide for the school’s regular Thai teacher, Mrs. Sunee. She has warmed up to me slowly, in part because she doesn’t speak English that well. In the afternoon, after explaining that I need her help to translate (which I do) I coax an unwilling Mrs. Sunee, to observe my Western teaching methods.

Every day different white people appear in the school office taking pictures, delivering boxes. Every group seems to have its own hats, t-shirts, flap jackets and slogans. Some sport flags and banners. Two days ago reformed drug addicts were serving lunch and God. One introduced himself to me as a Korean War orphan who ministers at the Riverside Church in Southern California. When he tells me how proud Mr. Chitravaren was to have an American, college university English teacher volunteering I decide to sign on for two extra days. “We want to build a church here. Right now we just give them love.”

The Khao Lak Nature Preserve, in the absence of any business, has been converted into the Tsunami Volunteer Center. Thai women today, Saturday, make flags to represent the nations of the volunteers. So far up to about they are up to 25.

God Squads are out in full force. Thais politely welcome them but privately wish they would find somewhere else to sell their faith. Thailand is 1% Christian. Mr. Chitravaren says after lunch that he appreciates most those who give from the heart. I tell him Jews don’t proselytize, we’re just into guilt. He laughs.

Elections are coming Feb. 6. The incumbent government isn’t popular among the teachers. They back the Democrats. Just the same the tsunami’s impact may influence the mechanics of voting since so many have been displaced or killed. “You’ll be surprised if some of them come back and vote,” I tell Mr. Chitvaren who shares my black humor. “We worry about that back home too.”

Two large orange fishing boats in Ban Nam Kem rest on the sand where they were swept. This afternoon four of the many orphaned dogs roaming the village found shade under one wrecked motor boat. Lowering her hand to a table leg below my chair Mrs. Sunee displays how high the mud was when they came back into the office after the waves. The water was two meters deep inside, she said. 30 km up the road in Khao Lak, where I am staying, a navy ship which the waves took over utility wires, sits a good mile from the ocean.

Everywhere surveyors peer through instruments on tripods. Gone fast were the Muslim Burmese squatters. “Many kinds of people come from everywhere in Ban Nam Kem because we have tin in the sea,” Mr. Chitravaren tells me over lunch. The Burmese harvested tree rubber and built boats, he says. The day after the waves hit the government sent all the Burmese home, explained Miss Nan. Accounting the village’s dead she enumerates the Burmese deaths separately. An NGO worker explains that when the water receded it also revealed old political problems.

I had expected to find shock and crises, but I have encountered survival. The village area wat (temple) has been converted into a command center. Efficiency is high. Boxed lunches are stacked neatly with a sample representative of their contents on display in front of each pile. The fried chicken is good. At a drink station you can have anything you like. It’s all free. All sorts of professionals mill about with less and less to do: police, therapists, masseurs (for those in the morgue who are stressed out) food servers (mostly women) translators and many others. Two Somerset, England police in black polo shirts with the emblem of their department on them say they were sent with 15,000 pound sterling to donate but they don’t know to which group to give it.

As I write this a doctor from the German embassy inoculates me for free against typhoid. I don’t even get up from my chair.

The Thai demonstrate unending gratitude. Though 4,029 are dead in Phang-Nga it is the memory of the foreigners with only the clothes on their back that Mr. Chitravaren recalls to me over lunch. Starting yesterday my students stood, wished me good morning at the start of class and, at the end of the hour, stood and, in unison thanked me. All hitch hikers get rides since they are all volunteers. I had to force 10 baht into the hand of taxi driver this morning.

Guilt for not doing enough seems to be pervasive among the Westerners. Thursday morning I was late for class because I stopped to listen to a tireless worker as she fought back tears. Desperate family members had turned off the road to the inn which has been converted into a volunteer center. Despite possession of records and reports they couldn’t find the body of their deceased and they had to fly back to Europe on an afternoon flight. Since she is in charge she tried to field their request for help but she simply couldn’t. After a month of non-stop volunteering the experience seemed to be a final straw for her and now she was pouring out her heart to me, a total stranger. This evening she was better. The American consulate had delivered toasters and cereal, everything asked for on her daily wish list. She cheerily solicited requests for tomorrow’s list. “Cheese,” said a volunteer, one of the army of white twenty-somethings who have flocked here from their college breaks and vacations. Perhaps it’ll be on the agenda for tomorrow’s 8 a.m. meeting. In the meantime, she admitted to me, she has to take a break. “But I feel so guilty when I do,” she said. At Saturday’s meeting it is announced that counselors are available for those experiencing post-traumatic stress. We are urged to take breaks. Sunday there will be no work.

  • *

I sit down at the computer with a sigh. “Are you all right,” a young woman asks me. “I am by nature a sarcastic, angry person and being nice all the time wears on me.” We both laugh. Actually, it is staying focused that is exhausting.

  • **

“There is no water; consider other options.” – I leave a note on half a cardboard toilet roll on the toilets. Now I realize what was actually said at the meeting.

  • *

I’ve begun getting compulsive about this diary. Up at 3:00 a.m. “You can easily get sucked in,” Jim, the Peace Corp volunteer warned. Benadryl and allergy pills help me sleep.

  • *

Saturday morning, 29 January

I am told the group supports my project to create an educational component to the long range rebuilding and reconstruction effort. Four teachers met with me after the morning meeting. Johnny, an elementary school teacher from San Francisco suggests a one-to-one partnering between Thai English teachers and teachers overseas. I already sense turf animosity from Mrs. Sunee.

We decide to create lists. one has Thai teacher’s names, e-mails, phone numbers and school addresses. The only name on the list is Mrs. Sunee. A second lists English speaking teachers from around the world who are willing to partner with a Thai teacher. It is blank. A third lists native speakers and teachers willing to commit to 10 days to two weeks in a classroom. Grace Toki, the TESOL teacher is the only name on the list. After the meeting I call Mr. Charoen Chitravarin to ask if it will be ok for Grace to come with me Monday. He asks to speak to her and then says yes. I dread having to call Mrs. Sunee to ask but I will. A fourth list includes resources. I spend Saturday writing out my lesson plans clearly in long hand for this list. Sunday I create a book with folders and find the exact titles of books I use in Shanghai. This list includes songs like the Hokey Pokey and web sites like enchantedlearning.com. I leave my name card in the folder. A fifth folder which I put first in the notebook is a reflective teacher’s journal of suggestions, observations, and challenges. When I scramble around the center for a blank notebook I come across one with the notes of another teacher, a young girl in college. I pen the first words in the notebook placing her one reflective page before mine: “These are the personal records of someone who came here before me. I found them, ironically, when I was looking throughout the center for a reflective teacher’s notebook. You may also find things from others who came before you. This folder is for that.

(Enc.) These are the artifacts of our experience. We may, right now, not understand why they are significant, or, why we save them. To paraphrase Michael Kammen’s People of Paradox (p. 13, Knopf, New York, 1972) history “…is the memory of civilization. A civilization without memory ceases to be civilized. A civilization without history ceases to have identity. Without identity there is no purpose; without purpose civilization will wither.”

Your contribution to this reflective teaching journal is the history of this project.

  • ***

(I already have one — when I used the classroom teaching method of standing silent in the front of the class to get student attention it prompted one boy to express his concern that I was tired. I explained this to Miss Nan who then told the boy not to worry.)

  • *

Saturday 6:02pm

Ray called. He was diving in the 10 foot pond behind the Ban Nam Kem school where I teach. “We were looking for a little boy. We weren’t successful.” Mud and muck. He was with the army. He says they’re limiting involvement of the Westerners. Face and race, I call this.

At the volunteer center I start picking up dinner dishes when I notice only the Thai are doing servant labor while the white volunteers relax and chat. “You didn’t sign up,” a white woman says. “A different form,” my roommate from Belfast calls it.

Westerners consent, Thais do.

Sunday morning – at the restaurant overlooking the ocean near my cabin

“Was the water this high?” says a man with a red neck. I’m surprised to see tourists but they are doctors from Denver. Politely but firmly the man presses me for information. They were working up north with 800 pounds of medical supplies. I tell them the waitress is wearing donated clothes, the volunteers are stressed, and everyone helping seems to have unresolved grieving issues. The woman agrees. Losing someone when you are young will often drive a person into a career of care giving, she says. They want to repay those who helped them.

* * *

For a better view of these photos go to http://billinchina.googlepages.com/khaolak,january,february,2005

In the first five weeks after the tsunami all Tsunami Volunteer Center volunteers met each day at 8am for announcements and work assignmentsMorning Meetings at the Khao Lak Nature Center, the first temporary headquarters of the Tsunami Volunteer Center; Volunteers did not go into a classroom if, after reading the “Dear Volunteer” letter that introduced the English Project, they failed to ask “what does ‘race and face’ mean?”The English Project letter to prospective teachers Every project manager had to make snap judgments about people they knew nothing about. My litmus test for cultural and racial sensitivity was predicated on whether (and how) volunteers who wanted to be teachers raised the issue of race themselves; tsunamivictims-full1Posters for victims of the tsunami, like those for victims of 9-11, were everywhere. It is more likely than not that the couple and the baby in the posters pictured are dead; Ban Nam Kem School Students February, 2005Ban Nam Kem students were remarkably resilient; Ban Nam Kem students with Grace Toki (black and white) who, by succeeding me at Ban Nam Kem made it possible for the program to take hold; students and me; IT Project Manager Garry Frederickson, a Coloradan from Hewlett Packard, arranging a lap-top based system in the middle of the jungle. Garry lived with constant pressure since key to the TVC’s success was its ability to engage the world.insidethetsunamivolunteercenteratkha-medium The circumstances of the volunteer effort bred unity among those from red and blue America during a time when politics and religious divisions in the United States were at their zenith. The mutual respect and genuine affability between Garry and other fundamentalists, such as 18 year-old Mandi Coulter, a college freshman from Georgia attached to a small ministry called Hands and Feet, and myself and other volunteers, many of whom leaned liberal to left, was evidence of this. The non-Thai volunteers came from some two dozen nations, mostly western. As the effort shifted from recovery to rebuilding tensions eased, but as they did religious and political tolerance lessened. Only on my last night did I encounter any anti-Semetism; I asked Tim Spedding, a volunteer from Redding, England to assist Grace. Later he teamed with English Outreach coordinator Joa Keis, from the USA; they became fast friends and served in Khao Lak for a year; The two gibbons orphaned by the tsunami were welcome distractions from the tension. They began each day tormenting a dog. Then, they fled like cowards to the upper canopy of vegetation that ringed the Khao Lak Nature Resort that was the TVC’s temporary home. There they circulated breaking only to come down among the volunteers and cause mischief. This one pictured is in the process of stealing my pen and throwing it into the woods.Gibbon at Khao Lak Nature Lodge


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